Stubai Universal Aluminum Crampons

There is a feeling of security I felt from having some steel crampons on a glacier climb. I would swear I stuck to the ice better and justified carrying the additional weight. Until I went up Glacier Peak during the hottest time in August. By then, the quickly receding snow and ice was well consolidated and bullet proof. My buddy had packed these Stubais and the performance was equal. He used these on Rainer just a month earlier and the only difference was they weighed half as much. I found my breaking point, physically on that climb and realized I could perform better with lighter gear that was just as functional.


Jim Nelson, author of Selected Climbs in the Cascades and owner of Pro Mountain Sports, swears by these crampons. After putting them to the test on Mt. Stuart, they stand up. When you are facing a long approach, in peak season, and wind up carrying them more than you are wearing them, this is the best all around crampon to have. The best perk is the bindings! Future boot purchases won't be dictated by crampon compatibility.

A note on the antiballing plates that are sold separately, skip them and use Teflon or duct tape instead. The $40 I threw down on the antibots was a waste. They snap on to the crampons but leave too much room for snow to get in between the the pons and your boots.

- Cody Hiatt

MSR Denali Snowshoes

Marketers will pitch snowshoeing as a sport in and of itself. I have seen ads with guys jumping in snowshoes like they are getting big air. My experience with snowshoes involves using them out of necessity to approach winter climbs because I am reluctant to throw down the cash for an AT ski set up. Snowshoeing is work, but the MSR Denali snowshoes make it bearable if not enjoyable.

I first picked up a pair of Denali classics some years ago based on their bombproof reputation and they lived up to it. These baby's can take some abuse, going over rocks, trees and holding traction in the icy sections. The straps are convenient to use with gloves on and a carabiner can attach them to your pack when you are on solid ground.


I made an attempt up Shuksan with a few friends who had these. I figured if I left mine at home, then I wouldn't have to break trail and could follow in their footsteps. Wrong! Always go with the group conscience! I was postholeing in their footsteps and longing for the Denali's to keep up. Since then, I have upgraded to the Denali Evo, which are more narrow. This makes it easier to walk in since I an not stepping on the other foot. The Evos also seem to have a higher front tip to cut through fresh powder. If you are wondering about getting the tails, assess your weight. I weigh 180 and find the tails indispensable; especially when searching for the elusive early season Washington Ice.

- Cody Hiatt

Trango "Cinch" Belay Device

The Trango Cinch is a new innovative device from Great Trango Holdings, Inc. Our local rep loaned this to me last month and I finally got a chance to use it at Vertical World Everett last week.

My partner at the gym was Alison, who weighs in at 115 lbs, which I thought would be an interesting test subject, since lighter loads are usually more difficult to handle with this type of device. It is NOT an autolocking device like the GriGri

The device weighs a mere 6 ounces (182 grams), which makes it light enough for alpine and/or multi-pitch climbing, and it works with single ropes ranging from 9.2 to 11mm. The Petzl GriGri weighs in at 225 grams, so it's half the weight, and much smaller in size. The Petzl GriGri also only works with ropes from 10 to 11 mm. Retail price is $69.95, compared to the GriGri's almost $90 ticket price. Read further for a savings code if you buy a cinch.

It is very easy to use for someone that has a good amount of experience with belay devices, and placement of the rope is very easy (and nothing like a GriGri). Once rigged, a simple tug of the rope to the climber confirms correct placement (along with the drawing and etching on the device).

The rope feeds out very smoothly, even for the 10-11 mm ropes at the gym. Since it is NOT auto locking, it is very important to always keep your hand on the brake, since a fall cannot be guaranteed to hold without operator asssitance.

Lowering the climber was a little more difficult, especially with the lightness of my climbing partner. Of course, just yanking back on the lever (like a GriGri) was not the correct way to lower the climber like I did, but also press back on the silver tab to allow the release to work correctly.

In the end, we were very happy with the performance of the cinch and feel that it is a nice addition to anyone's rack. It would be best used for cragging sport climbs and single pitch trad routes until a party is completely comfortable using it for multi pitch trad and shorter alpine routes.

Email us now and order a Cinch at 15% off retail price and mention the code "dev".

Instructions: http://trango.com/pdfs/CinchInstrBookletCE.pdfPictorial

Pictorial Introduction: http://trango.com/pdfs/CinchInstructions.pdf

Voile SD Mojo splitboard

After a few seasons on my home made split, followed later by a few seasons on Voile's original Split Decision (of 'blue flame' vintage), the time was finally ripe for an upgrade. I was never too thrilled riding my old 'blue flame' - it seemed heavy, unresponsive, overly stiff and heel-side control was unpredictable. Oddly enough, despite the fact that my soggy home made split handled like a wet noodle, it was somehow easier and more enjoyable to ride in virtually all snow conditions.

When an opportunity arose to purchase Voile's newest splitboard - the SD Mojo, at a price I couldn't refuse, mind you, I had no other recourse but to liquidate my current splitboard assets and get my hands on the sexy new Mojo. Having read some reviews on splitboard.com and elsewhere, it was reassuring to learn that Voile designed the board to handle more like a 'real' snowboard - that's to say a stiffer tail and softer nose. There are other refinements in construction and materials with the intended goal of making the board lighter and livelier.

The verdict? Voile hit the nail on the head with this one folks! I can scarsely tell this is a splitboard. The stiff tail helps with the float on the skin up and makes for lightning quick turn-initiation. The buttery nose planes up perfectly in powder. The board has lots of pop and has a nimble and lively ride. While I question the longevity of the capped design (an splitboard industry first), it certainly adds to the weight savings. The topsheet color options are nice, if not a bit subdued compared to previous models. The base is a solid black, which is probably the best color for repairing and concealing base damage.

Would I change anything? Not really. Maybe more spoon and up-turn in the nose? Considering the price of the competition - Prior, Venture to name a few, the Voile is a bargain at around $800. I think only Burton comes close in price and may also be worth investigating, but I'll save that for a later review. For now, I'll be praying for snow and enjoying my Mojo!

More info on Voile's site:

http://www.voile-usa.com/splitboard.html



- Sergio V.